Rajasthan Bound : Bhangarh, Rajasthan Travelogue by Pratyaya



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Rajasthan Bound

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A write-up of my trip from Jaipur to Bhangarh via Dausa

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Dausa called Devnagari by the local people is dotted by eroded hillocks,thorny plants and shrubs in the area. It provides a panoramic view during sunset and sunrise where the sun had to play with the small hills to make its presence felt. With all the colours of Rajasthan Dausa may attract you if you are not a city lover. Bhangarh welcomes everybody to visit, explore and remain aloof from the world.

Distance from cities

Dausa-50 KMs

Jaipur-105 KMs (via Dausa)

The place Bhangarh is told to be the ancient capital of Rajasthan and termed haunted by many in local.I have also found links in the internet for this matter.

I have worked in Dausa for almost two and half years and had two three chances to visit Bhangarh.This travelogue may not tell a single journey but my experiences.

I stayed in Somnath Nagar from where crossing the maddening traffic of Dausa you can reach the Bus stand near the railway station.

From Dausa bus stand when you move ahead towards Jaipur you find a certain halt at the railway crossing where you can see hawkers, small shops selling items. If you are lucky you would see many beautiful ladies crossing you and giving an intoxicating smile. I admit that I am a great admirer of Rajasthani women and their beauty.

In between as a train comes the enthusiast in me would jump and mark the engine, bogies, loaded material etc. That gives me a sense of satisfaction.One of my favourite things in life... trains.

As the gate opens I proceed with my Bajaj Wind - 125 bike which is surely a great bike in terms of riding quality. I ride with ease at a pace of about 40 KMs.In Dausa if you want to get quality petrol then cross the level crossing and proceed for about 300 meters towards Jaipur. One Hindustan petrol pump on the left hand side of the Jaipur road can be seen where you would get quality petrol .Another Indian Oil pump would be little far off(1 KM from level crossing and not on the way to Bhangarh) on the same way and can be visited if you do not get at the HP one.

In Dausa, you would certainly find many vehicles crossing past you in spite of having less power and cubic capacity.Driving rough and careless is fun for Rajasthanis and with Jugads moving it is always desirable to drive/ ride carefully.  I generally take 2 liters of petrol seeming sufficient for the 100 Kms journey.

As I hand over the currency note, I get going and reach Sainthal Mod which serves as a business, meeting place for commoners on transit mode. You can get good lassie, buttermilk or juice if you do not care about the hygiene and move on.There you also get local, express RSRTC buses for Jaipur,Alwar and Gola ka bas (Bhangarh).

Take a right turn from Sainthal Mod. After some 500 meters on the left you would see a beautiful Devi Durga temple which would simply attract you if you have the faith. Marvelous deity standing and blessing the world.

Kick start the bike again and you would see the Agra -Jaipur highway. If you have the chance see the buses and trucks going at a frantic pace. You would surely see buses competing and moving at a breakneck speed. Sometimes I wonder why speed kills people and testimony to that in 2005-06, 36 people have died in different accidents near the Dausa high way. May be we have lost one of the future prime ministers Mr.Rajesh Pilot in a road accident near Dausa. Move on, cross the highway and you still go on a highway which takes you to a place called Andhi in Jaipur district.

If you are travelling in winters you would see golden yellow mustard fields all around the road. I bet you would surely love to take photographs near this. You would find cows, goats with their small child herd keepers grinning at you.

Some 3 KMs after crossing the NH chowk of Dausa on your right hand side you would find a man made structure (check dam)looking like a mirage in the desert. The blue water would mesmerize here in spite of its meekness as you would see barren and barren fields in Rajasthan. That scenery relieves the pain  and rejuvenates the mind and soul.

You would cross Malagwas on the left then Rohra kalan on the right. Move ahead as Khuri Kalan and Khuri Khurd would pass by. After Khuri you would find the much famed Ban Ganga river which quenched the thirst of Bhisma pitamaha  at the deathbed made of arrow . By Arjun's arrow which ripped the earth and brought out Patal Ganga gave Bhisma the last drop of water which flowed down and formed the river. Nowadays the river itself is thirsty and water is seen only when it rains.The river is dotted with local Kuncha pani (shrub used for thatching houses and making brooms), grazing area for domesticated animals.Here you may have to pay toll tax (if you are on a four wheeler) and go ahead.

Then there awaits few common names between Rajasthan and Gujarat.There you would cross Bapi (Vapi in Gujarat) and Baroda.Bapi is an industrial RIICO facility. In between Andhi mod, Rampura would pass by. Near Baroda if you are a mining and geology enthusiast you would be surprised to know that gold is being found there. Cross Baroda and you would find sudden change in the landscape. Greenery would greet you as you would see a great dam with rich history named Sainthal sagar on the left of the road.It serves the purpose of irrigation, ground water recharge, fishery and spot for picnikers.There is lot of fun, as you see a large waterbody in Rajasthan. You can roam around the place and find solace. Here the herd of monkeys may create problem.











After freshening up when you take a right turn after Sainthal sagar you cross a passage of water remaining stagnant due to a culvert/barrage made over it for vehicular traffic.You would see lot of water lilies bloooming and children taking bath. Go ahead and you would cross a village of Jaipur district.After one kilometer you would again enter Dausa district. Khartala, Govind Pura, Hajya ka bas and other villages would passby.Here on left of the road you would see Aravali ranges beckoning on you. Some temple up the hill look magnificent and you still drive on.

One little hamlet Sainthal shows its presence where a board tells you that you are entering in to Alwar district with a Balajee/ Hanuman temple on the right. Now you would see a lot of stone querying going on .You might have seen one or two in the movie Karan Arjun.

Gola ka Bas the base of Bhan garh welcomes after the stone queries. If you need any refreshment in terms of Mirchi Vada,Pakodi you can try there from the hawkers. Tangy Rajasthani flavour would put you in search of water. Go ahead for one KM and turn left where you would see no sign of human habitation.Moving 2.5 Kms ahead one ruined fort awaits and that is Bhangarh.

Park the vehicle in front of the main gate and see that it is protected by ASI.Again one board says do not stay beyond 5 in the evening. It’s haunted.

There you would see the fort, temples take a dip in the tank and get tired but then let me tell the story of Bhan garh to you.

Bhangarh was once a flourishing town of 10,000 homes. That was in the 17th century when it was built by Raja Madho Singh, the illustrious Man Singh I's brother (Man Singh was one of the nine gems in Akbar's court, remember? See History of Amber for more). But it's all gone now; only splendid ruins remain. According to prevalent tales, the town was cursed by an evil magician and had to be abandoned. The fear still looms large in the minds of the locals, for they tread the soil of Bhangarh cautiously.

Most of Bhangarh is in ruins. Crumbling temples, walls and pavilions standing against the silent wilderness of forested hills scream out about the town's ancient prosperity. The ruins of the arches and colonnades, built on various levels, suggest that it was once quite an elaborate complex. Portions like a pavilion and a minaret on a mound are somewhat intact. The site seems the perfect place to pack a picnic lunch and retire to.
The recently restored evocative medieval bazaar is a truly fascinating experience. Nearby is the finely carved Someshwar temple.

The temple tank is still used by villagers to bathe and wash. There's also the Temple of Gopinath which has carved pillars and a corbeled cupola. Another fascinating monument of Bhangarh is the Randiyon ka Mahal (Palace of Prostitutes). Its unusual name probably comes from female courtesans for whom the palace was built. In those days female court attendants were also taken from harems of rulers. Overall, Bhangarh makes an exciting trip







Nearest attraction- Ajabgarh, Narayani Mata temple,Sarsa Devi temple,Sariska,Nilkanth Mahadev,Alwar

Ajabgarh has a luxury 5 star hotel named Amanbagh

Hotel facility in Dausa-

Hotel Madhuvan

Hotel Pinky,Middle priced

RTDC Midway-Only One room

Other lesser known hotels also there.

Eating Out-

Veg- Jodhana Restaurant,Tiwari,Sharma Bhojanalay

Non Veg- Jayka Restaurant,Pinky Hotel,Medina Restaurant















Hope you enjoyed reading my travelogue.

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This Travelogue 'Rajasthan Bound' was posted by Pratyaya on Wednesday, October 24, 2007.


Pratyaya lives in Bambolim(Goa).
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2 Comments on 'Rajasthan Bound'
A travelogue about a trip to Dausa
On 10/22/2010 12:15:46 PM AjantaCavesIndia said...

Bhangarh Rajasthan is very famous for its historical ruins. This place is rated to be the among the “most haunted places in the world”. Amazingly, the Government of India, does not allow the visitors to stay in the place after and before sunset. Moreover, the signboard placed by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) reads, “Entering the borders of Bhangarh before sunrise and after sunset is strictly prohibited”..

On 10/24/2007 12:42:02 PM Tripper Max said...

Excellent buddy and the pics are lovely too ...

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